This, Napa's only winery-owned restaurant, is worth getting dressed up for.  Like our other haute cuisine favorite in Napa Valley, La Toque, étoile at Domaine Chandon is a special occasion unto itself.  With our good friends and fellow DC alums, the Dyers and the Forbes, last night we reveled in the agreeable surroundings and the customs acquired long ago in this very restaurant.  To wit: plenty of étoile rosé, a lovely estate Chardonnay and a magnum of 1986 Mt. Veeder Cabernet from our cellar to accompany the inspired menu created by talented young chef Perry Hoffman.  His first Michelin star will surely soon be followed by another.  And another.